La Chouette d’or

couvertureRecently on the French news, they featured the story of the twenty year quest to find la chouette d’or (lah shoe-ette door), or “the golden owl.” In April 1993, Max Valentin (a pseudonym to protect his peace) buried the statue at an undisclosed location somewhere in France. He provided 11 clues in a book entitled Sur la trace de la chouette d’or, illustrated by the statue’s creator Michel Becker, and the quest began. Twenty years later, les chouetteurs, the name for the owl obsessed hunters, are still determined that this year will be the one and they’ll find the elusive bird. And if they do? They get to trade in the statue, that is actually made of bronze, not gold, for a far more valuable one worth about 150,000 Euros. Valentin died in 2009 with no winner yet identified.

Becker-livre-7joursSome chouetteurs have gotten close. Valentin noticed that the ground had been disturbed near it one time. Some frustrated hunters wrote him nasty letters; others pleaded for extra little hints in exchange for serious money. Some determined souls have busted up concrete floors, and even a chapel, believing that the elusive owl lay beneath. Think you’ve got the golden touch? The chouetteurs keep in contact with each other through this website. The world’s longest-running unsolved treasure hunt awaits. A rather dated French slang term for “cool” is chouette. How appropriate.

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La nuit européenne des musées

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La nuit européenne des musées is Saturday, May 18, 2013. Special events are scheduled in museums across Europe, including 166 different events in Paris alone. Browse the list of what’s going on across France by the name of the city. Participating museums will be open late and hold special programs and most are completely free. Here’s just a sample:

  • L’Orangerie (Jardin desTuileries) – listen to jazz in the Matisse-Picasso roomsNuit-des-Musees-2013_z
  • Archives Nationales – actors will interpret figures from French history, from Charlemagne to Charles de Gaulle
  • Musée Carnavalet – see a performance of The Three Musketeers
  • Musée de la chasse et de la nature – hear  a duo of violin and voice
  • Maison du Portugal –enjoy a piano concert
  • Musée de la musique – attend concerts featuring movie music

51RQW%2BqroAL__SL75_Artwise Paris Museum Map

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Gîtes

Chambord 1In 1519, François I started to build the Château de Chambord – a 400 room hunting “lodge” in the Loire valley. Obviously, with 400 rooms, he intended to have lots of guests. Being a hospitable kind of guy, I think he’d approve of a new venture of gîtes (zjeet), or self-catering holiday cottages, on the grounds of the castle. There are two options: La Gabillière, porte de Muides and La maison forestière des Réfractaires. The motivation for the new option is simple – maintaining and restoring such a vast property costs the state a fortune. Most of those 400 rooms are closed to the public because they need a total overhaul. The income from holiday rentals will enable some much needed work to go forward.

Chambord 3La Gabillière is right at the entrance to the château grounds. If you stay there, you and up to five guests would be significantly more comfortable than the king’s original guests. You’d enjoy a private garden, parking for more than one vehicle, three bedrooms (two with double beds and one with two twins), a living room, dining room, full kitchen, a bathroom, a powder room, and all of the modern conveniences, including wi-fi. You’ll also get an entry to the château for each guest and reduced rates on special events during your stay.

Chambord 2

The second property, La maison forestière des Réfractaires, is about 200 yards from the château. The name comes from the residents of the village of Chambord who used to hide out in the woods to escape from the mandatory service when this part of France was occupied by the Nazis during World War II. Four bedrooms house up to eight people, with two bedrooms with two twin beds, and two with double beds, and a bathroom upstairs that includes a Jacuzzi tub, while downstairs, there is a large living space with a living room, TV, and dining room, and a kitchen. You’ll also have access to a private garden and your own parking here. This sounds like a great property for two families to share.

Rentals are for the whole week, mid-week, or the weekend. A full week in the high season is 1,350 € for La Gabillière and 1,850 € for La maison forestière des Réfractaires. If you’d like to know more, call +33 (0)2 54 50 50 14 or e-mail frederic.villerot@chambord.org.

516ggp%2BYnlL__SL75_Loire Valley – Eyewitness Travel Guide

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Le Fil conducteur

Love Story 1Paris: A Love Story is a memoir by Kati Marton. The author and former journalist has led an interesting life, and le fil conducteur (luh feel kondooktur), or the common thread, through it all has been Paris. Marton begins the book with a last weekend in Paris before the sudden death of her husband, former UN Ambassador and life-time diplomat Richard Holbrooke. Marton says, “In a life of multiple uprooting, Paris has been my one fixed point.” She then flashes back through the important stages of her life with Paris as the background, first as a student during the uprising in May 1968, then as her regular rendezvous during her tempestuous life with her first husband, journalist Peter Jennings, before returning to the story of her life with Holbrooke.

Love Story 2Marton is on first-name basis with every important journalist or political figure in half the countries of the world. Her name dropping isn’t self-conscious, but rather a simple recitation of the friends she accumulated through a life-time rich in experiences. One of those friends was Bernard Kouchner, the co-founder of Médecins sans Frontier and former French Minister of Health. It was he who drove Marton around on his motor bike when she and Holbrooke were looking for a Paris apartment of their own. Holbrooke declared “Katy is more Katy in Paris than anywhere else.” This is how I feel – more myself in Paris. When she found a little gem on the rue des Écoles she described herself as “wild with joy that [she] finally owned a little piece of Paris.” Their favorite haunt became Le Coupe-Chou that I’ll have to check out on my next trip to Paris (9 – 11 rue de Lanneau). The two enjoyed shopping at Hartwood (40 rue du Bac), for elegant and classic French tailoring. After his death, Marton gave up their homes in New York and moved to Paris full-time. Her jogging route takes her down the same street where my daughter lived when she was a student in Paris. She and I have both hung out at Le Rostand café on the top edge of the jardin du Luxembourg.

Love Story 4The memoir is a blend of places I know well and people I know only through the news. It’s less about Paris that I expected from the title and more about a life lived fully but not always without regret. Those regrets do not include her marriage to Holbrooke nor the time she continues to spend in Paris. Just as le fil conducteur through Marton’s life has been Paris, the same fil connects her to me and to all those who are more themselves in Paris than anywhere else.

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Qui trop embrasse mal étreint

applesI came across a new French saying recently: Qui trop embrasse mal étreint (key troh ahmbrass mal aytrahnt), which literally means “[One} who takes on too much, grips badly.” I have an image of someone trying to hold an armful of apples and letting them fall. It’s the equivalent of the English saying “You shouldn’t bite off more than you can chew.” It’s good advice. At the moment, I’m juggling my job, searching for a new one, and preparing our house for sale. In a few days, I’m about to start the first of three grad courses I’m planning to finish this summer. Multi-tasking is second nature and feels like a virtue. But maybe it’s time to relax a bit. In Paris. Let’s face it; if I moved there, I’d take on half-a-dozen projects in no time flat. I may be a hopeless case.

51F0bGoDXHL__SL75_Time Management from the Inside Out: The Foolproof System for Taking Control of Your Time – And Your Life

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Chat échaudé craint l’eau froide

423ANo one is more surprised that we are that our home is run by two cats. Neither of us had pets as children (I don’t count gerbils) and neither of us had any intention of acquiring one. After all, my husband was highly allergic to cats (or so we thought). Then came the immovable force. Our eleven year-old daughter developed cat-fever.

beast from the backFirst came the cat books. Huge, glossy tomes full of pictures and information of every breed known to the feline world. Laurien seemed intent on memorizing every entry. When we told her we couldn’t possibly have a cat, she sublimated her thwarted love into working at an animal shelter. Week after week, we dropped her off at the shelter where she cleaned cages and cuddled furry kittens. She would chatter animatedly all the way home about this or that cuuuute kitten and sometimes get us to come inside to admire a particularly adorable litter. She was allowed to pick out names for mewling newborns. Dangerous stuff.

Her research expanded into allergy remedies. She left “helpful” articles around the house for her dad to peruse on the treatments to prevent and treat cat allergies. Then came the post-its. Positive affirmations were posted at eye-level – adult eye-level, I might add – that declaimed, “I will have a cat by December 31, 2001.” Still, we held firm.

beast 001Next came the stroke of genius, an argument so rational and reasonable that no adult could prevail for long. The animal shelter had a fostering program. The idea was that you would take a cat home in order to find it a home with a loving family. YOU weren’t committing to the furry friend; you were just helping. Laurien’s logic was flawless. Her dad could see if he had allergies while we did a good deed. Fissures opened in the foundation of parental resistance. Then cracks. Her dad was away on business when he called to tell her to go for it. The foundation had crumbled to bits.

beast 014Laurien and I went to the shelter to pick out a foster kitty. We were told that kittens weren’t on offer; they found homes too easily. We checked out the cat room. One cage was stacked on top of another, each holding a somnolent or glaring cat. Except one. One calico cat was putting on a top-hat and cane routine. “Pick me! Pick me! I’ll be fun! I’ll be loving!” We swallowed the bait.

beast 015While the paperwork was prepared (I didn’t have to fill out so much paperwork to bring my newborn daughter home from the hospital), the supervisor told us that poor kitty had been abandoned in an apartment when people moved. She was brought in by compassionate neighbors. No one knew her name or her age, but they thought that she was about a year old. “We’ve been calling her Mary Lou, but you can name her anything you like.”

JoyOn the way home, I asked Laurien what she wanted to name her “foster” cat. She replied, “Joy, because I’m soooooo happy!” When we called her dad with the news, he knew it was over. How could he possibly tell his daughter that she could no longer have Joy in her life? Of course, we adopted Joy. Fortunately, my husband has never exhibited the least sign of allergies to the cat he refers to as “Beast” but on whom he showers lots of attention.

LZSince then, Joy was joined by another shelter kitty, Zelda, a sleek-as-a-seal black cat with a white polka-dot on her breast. (She’s named after F. Scott Fitzgerald’s flighty wife, not the video game, much to the disappointment of my male students.) I thought overweight, somnolent Joy needed a friend. Joy didn’t agree, but she grudgingly allows Zelda to breathe and eat. They interrupt our sleep, damage our furniture (especially Zelda), and require special arrangements when we travel. Yet we wouldn’t part with either of them. That includes my husband, for all his anti-cat bluster.

The purpose of this long reminiscence is to introduce today’s expression, which was a new one for me: Chat échaudé craint l’eau froide (shah ay-show-day crahn low frwade). This literally means  “Scalded cat fears cold water.” The English equivalent of this rather gruesome saying is “Once bitten, twice shy. That little nugget doesn’t seem to apply to cat adoption. One cat leads to two cats, why not three?

51wKT1kwi8L__SL75_The French Cat

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Les petits moments de plaisir

Hotel-Lancaster-Paris-Gouter-Noel-Silencio-table-650x433I’ve always enjoyed the pomp and circumstance of afternoon tea – even though I prefer to drink coffee. This most British of gracious rituals has come to Paris. Four fabulous hotels are now home to very high-class afternoon teas. Champagne, delectable pastries, and green tea in the flowered courtyard of the Mandarin Oriental; scones, finger sandwiches, and a whole armoire of delectable pastries at the Meurice; millefeuille, cocktails and Earl Grey tea at the Jardin français at the Bristol; and the Gouter Gourmand (Food Lover’s Snack Time) at the Lancaster. And afternoon tea isn’t just for those who are taking a break from the rigors of shopping on Avenue Montaigne. Tea time is edging out business breakfasts and drinks after work as the place for deal making.

Fashion_high_tea_at_hotel_le_bristolThe draw is accessible luxury. Even if a suite at one of these hotels is out of reach, afternoon tea is feasible. Les petits moments de plaisir (lay puhtea mohmehn duh playzeer), or “little moments of pleasure” are still in the budget. Social networks are playing a role too. One of the little pleasures is using your cell phone to snap a picture of the beautiful spread and upload it to Facebook or Instagram to show everyone what a great life you’re having. What fabulous free advertising; even a five-star hotel has got to love that! And if they treat the tea-time clients well enough, they just might book one of those suites, too.

MeuriceHere are some addresses and their sweet deals:

Le Mandarin Oriental, 251 rue Saint-Honoré. Sweet Camélia Menu for 39 €. Tel. : 01-70-98-78-88. www.mandarinoriental.fr

Le Bristol Paris, 112 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. Hot beverage and pastries at 27 € or “high tea” during a fashion show on Fashion Saturdays 70 €. Tel. : 01-53-43-43-00. www.lebristolparis.com

Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli. Tea Time in the Dali Room at 46 €. Tel. : 01-44-58-10-10. www.lemeurice.com

Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri. Goûter gourmand (Food Lover’s Snack Time) at 22 €. Tel. : 01-40-76-40-76. www.hotel-lancaster.fr

I think I might have to work my way through all of them and give you my definitive answer on which one is best!

41m2AxJuUFL__SL75_Pâtisserie: Mastering the Art of French Pastry

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