Où manger à Aix-en-Provence

55CBACEC-1FEC-4EA7-907E-B47C36D4A947When I was researching what to see and do in Aix-en-Provence, I didn’t see good restaurant recommendations. There were lots of casual dining suggestions and plenty of ideas for pastries, but nothing for dinner. Luckily, on our first evening in this charming small city, we followed Patricia’s Rule and found a lovely restaurant.  Patricia’s Rule is never to eat at a restaurant on the main streets or one that has photos on the menu.

9357B882-288D-4A03-8E77-B127B3BDEE2DThe Jardin Mazarin was just a block or so off the bustling Cours Mirabeau at 15 rue du 4 septembre. We liked it so well that we dined there twice, once in the dining room and once on the terrace in the enclosed garden. Each course was beautifully plated and full of imaginative flavors, such as the scallops with slivers of truffle inserted in the middle. I recommend making a reservation, either in their website or by calling as both the dining room and terrace were very full both evenings that we were there. Bon appétit!

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Une petite bibliothèque gratuite

25fe53c9-69b4-4580-9444-66d3005513a1.jpegWhenever I see a Little Free Library, I can’t resist the urge to browse. I may take a book from one, and leave on in another, but the point is to keep books circulating and being enjoyed, not just sitting on a shelf gathering dust. Last year, I found Country Homes: Elegant weekend retreats from around the world, by Jean Demachy, and indulged my love of design, even though I had a backlog of books I still hadn’t gotten through. Imagine my delight when I recently read it to discover that at least half of the homes were in France! This is because the author was the creator of the French magazine Elle Décor and former publisher of French Elle. If you enjoy window shopping through the lives of chic French people, you’ll enjoy this book. The ample photos will give you tons of decorating inspiration. And now it’s time for me to send it to another petite bibliothèque gratuite. If you’d like to check one out in your area, or perhaps start one if your own, please click on this link. You never know what you’ll find.

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Nicolas Poussin

FB7BBC57-481E-4830-9E18-7DFF9782C278French painter Nicolas Poussin was born on June 15, 1594 in Normandy, making him 425 years old later this week. He is identified with the Classical period, that is, representations of stories from mythology or the Bible that comprise the backbone of the Italian Renaissance movement. He moved to Paris to study art, but then went straight to the source – Rome – to study the Italian masters first hand. He was particularly influenced by Raphaël and Bernini. Poussin spent most of his life there, executing commissions for Cardinal Barberini.

AFEF77DC-AE14-4C92-AD15-392A94CF210CEschewing the increasingly popular Baroque style, he clung to Classicism and became its greatest French exponent. Poussin drew upon the rich store of Greek and Roman mythology for his subjects, while utilizing the techniques of color developed by Titian. His greatest canvases deal with vast subjects, crowd scenes crammed with action and detail. Later in life, Poussin tended to concentrate more on landscapes, although still steeped in the Classical tradition. Joyeux anniversaire, Nicolas!

542541D5-A5BF-4106-8FE4-C44BC3267A35Nicolas Poussin: Drawings and Paintings

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Un peu de chaos

106C9862-255C-4E7D-B69D-C39F8B137A8DI love a good period drama, all those gorgeous costumes and lavish sets! And they’re even better if they take place in France. I just finished A Little Chaos on Netflix, starring Kate Winslet as a fictitious garden designer, Sabine de Barra, who is tasked with creating one of the garden features of Versailles. Le Nôtre, the great landscape designer, is played by Mattias Schoenaerts (from Suite Française). While he is obsessed with rigorous order in his professional designs, his personal life is in turmoil. De Barra and loves color and looser plantings, so of course, a romance develops between the opposites. The film takes enormous liberties, portraying Louis XIV as a gentle, grieving widower, rather than as the power and image obsessed Sun King. It’s not a fabulous film – a little slow and maudlin at times – but it’s lovely to see another side of the great French palaces and the soundtrack is quite delightful.

689A2B67-6BD9-4F64-B7F2-9A9B6E9F5E46The Gardens of Le Nôtre at Versailles

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Frère Luc

DF3EB6B0-C6CF-44D0-887C-57878457753EPainter Frère Luc was born Claude François in Amiens, France in May 1614. There is no record of the exact day, so we’ll just wish him a happy 403rd birthday today. Before he became a monk, he trained under Simon Vouet in Paris, and then he went to Rome to study the great Masters. He returned to Paris in 1639, where he worked on the redecoration of the Louvre. In 1641, he joined the Franciscan Order, taking the name Frère Luc, and thereafter, most of his paintings were devoted to the life and works of St. Francis of Assisi, which he executed for various monasteries.

Eglise d'AvernesIn 1670, he went to Québec, mainly as the architect in charge of the rebuilding of the monastery there. At the end of 1671, he returned to Paris and resumed his work as a painter of religious works. He is now chiefly of interest for the work he produced while in Québec and these paintings influenced later generations of French-Canadian artists. He died in May 17, 1685 back in Paris, France.

68AC05A1-8FBF-4742-A00F-5A75BA5E0E10French Painting in the 17th Century

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Mademoiselle de Joncquières


BB6FA686-BB61-4475-886E-004368202DBAI saw a very good French film on Netflix this week. The English title is Lady J, but the French title is the much more difficult to say Mademoiselle de Joncquières.  This 2018 film was based on an 18th century story by Denis Diderot, Jacques le fataliste et son maître. Cecile de France plays Madame de la Pommeraye who decides to exact revenge on her former lover, played by Edouard Baer, by setting him up with a woman who is calculated to break his heart.

2E0CE18D-5A4F-44EC-AAED-4F2F307C93E5The costumes are gorgeous and definitely merit the César that they won for costume design. The two principal actors were similarly honored with Meilleur Actrice and Meilleur Acteur awards. The lavish period interior and exterior shots kept me trying to figure out where the movie had been filmed. I hope that you enjoy it!

49114A76-F253-496D-BD6F-89427C47B741Jacques le fataliste et son maître


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Toulouse-Lautrec et les Étoiles de Paris

F4D035D5-ECF4-4670-98FB-989F08983AFEMother’s Day was cold and wet in the Boston area, so we decided to spend some time at the Toulouse-Lautrec exhibit at the Museum of Fine Art. Before social media, there were posters, and Toulouse-Lautrec had a gift of conveying all the sizzle of demi-monde clubs and cabarets in the advertising art that was splashed on walls around Paris.

DA29AB69-FA13-48A4-87E6-7955B3829862Toulouse-Lautrec and the Stars of Paris” explores the connections between the artist and the careers he helped launch. Intermingled with his posters, drawings and paintings are the works of artists who inspired him, like Degas, or who were inspired by the same subject matter of horse racing and brothels. In addition, there are other artifacts of the times, such as clothing and memorabilia. I loved the film footage of fin de siècle Paris and some of the dance hall acts.

AFE6A0DA-668B-48EA-8537-81DCA5DBA19DLautrec died of complications of alcoholism and syphilis at the age of only 36, but he left behind a substantial body of work. It’s amazing to me that so many of the advertising posters, which were always intended to be ephemeral have survived. The bright colors and exuberance chased away the nasty weather blues. The exhibit is on until August 4, 2019.

24ED5483-2570-4665-8DB8-B1A36BADDC45Toulouse-Lautrec and the Stars of Paris



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