As I mentioned in a recent post, we went on an excursion to Cassis when we were in Aix-en-Provence. On our way back, I asked the van driver for more information about their trip to the Luberon villages. He offered us a discounted rate to fill the last two seats in that afternoon’s excursion, so off we went to Lourmarin, Roussillon, and Lacoste.
The flower draped stone buildings on the winding streets in Lourmarin were picture perfect. We spent the majority of our limited time there learning about lavender bottles (lavender stalks that are bent to cover the flower heads and embellished with ribbons) from a true artisan. Of course, a few had to come home with me.
Roussillon is famous for its ochre cliffs that have been mined for a millenium. All the buildings in town sport different tones of this warm mineral. I would have liked to have had enough time to do the walk further in the cliffs to explore these formations in more depth.
The castle at the summit of the village of Lacoste is the former home of the evil Marquis de Sade, now owned by fashion designer Pierre Cardin. There is really only one steep, cobbled road that winds its way down to the foot of the hill through the thousand year old village.
While I would have appreciated at least twice as much time in both Lourmarin and Roussillon, this excursion was the only way we could have possibly seen three villages in just one afternoon. Yes, we could theoretically have rented a car, but seeing our driver thread the needle down narrow streets reinforced our conviction that this is a task best left to those familiar with the region. What are your favorite Luberon villages? Any hair-raising driving in Provence stories to share?
Provence Made Easy: The Sights, Restaurants, Hotels of Provence
French Romantic painter and sculptor Paul Delaroche was born on July 17, 1797. He specialized in historical scenes after having trained initially as a landscape painter. He turned to figure painting in 1817 after failing to win the Prix de Rome. He entered the studio of Gros and began exhibiting at the Salon in the early 1820s — at the very time when the rivalry between Romanticism and Classicism was at its fiercest. Delaroche steered a middle course between these two extremes. His historical subjects, which aimed at poignancy rather than grandeur, were typical of the Romantics, but were handled in a bland academic manner.
When I travel, I usually like to take public transportation and move around like a local. This time, however, we signed up for some mini-van excursions at the Office de Tourisme in Aix, as Provence isn’t as well served by trains and buses as some other regions of France. Although these trips do have their drawbacks, notably having to stick to someone else’s timetable, they are certainly an option to consider.
The first trip was to Cassis, a port town near Marseille. It’s famous for its calanques, sheltered inlets lined with steep, cream colored cliffs. It’s been an active fishing and trading town since Roman times. It’s also known for the stone from its quarries, full of little fossils, that has been used to build many of the principal ports of southern France.
We had a boat tour to three of the calanques, before having some time in the town. I loved all the flowers in front of the houses. We finished with a trip to the top of a hill to see a panoramic view of Cassis from below. We enjoyed it so much that we signed up for another excursion that same afternoon, but more on that one another time.
Smart Travels Europe with Rudy Maxa Paris, Provence
I greatly enjoyed my time in Aix. There just seemed to be a gentle feeling in the streets lined with golden-hued buildings. Here are some suggestions of places that you might enjoy.
1. Les Fontaines – Aix is famous for having over a hundred fountains, and each one so different. It’s hard to go far without finding anither beauty.
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Greater than a Tourist Aix-en-Provence: 50 Travel Tips from a Local
When I was researching what to see and do in Aix-en-Provence, I didn’t see good restaurant recommendations. There were lots of casual dining suggestions and plenty of ideas for pastries, but nothing for dinner. Luckily, on our first evening in this charming small city, we followed Patricia’s Rule and found a lovely restaurant. Patricia’s Rule is never to eat at a restaurant on the main streets or one that has photos on the menu.
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French painter Nicolas Poussin was born on June 15, 1594 in Normandy, making him 425 years old later this week. He is identified with the Classical period, that is, representations of stories from mythology or the Bible that comprise the backbone of the Italian Renaissance movement. He moved to Paris to study art, but then went straight to the source – Rome – to study the Italian masters first hand. He was particularly influenced by Raphaël and Bernini. Poussin spent most of hi
Eschewing the increasingly popular Baroque style, he clung to Classicism and became its greatest French exponent. Poussin drew upon the rich store of Greek and Roman mythology for his subjects, while utilizing the techniques of color developed by Titian. His greatest canvases deal with vast subjects, crowd scenes crammed with action and detail. Later in life, Poussin tended to concentrate more on landscapes, although still steeped in the Classical tradition. Joyeux anniversaire, Nicolas!
Nicolas Poussin: Drawings and Paintings
