As I mentioned a couple of weeks ago, Maison Kayser has opened a branch in New York. We checked it out last weekend and give it high marks. It’s a lot larger than any Kayser I’ve been to in Paris, with a small area devoted to the sale of breads and pastries to go and a large dining area. Sadly, I didn’t see any of my favorite tarte Monge in the pastry case, but maybe it was all sold out thanks to my rave reviews.
The bistro-style dining room has lots of white marble and mirrors. As in France, the tables are very close together. Frankly, that works better in France than in New York. The French tend to speak very quietly in restaurants and public places in general, but this isn’t a trait of New Yorkers. In fact, this is our biggest criticism of the new place – it’s loud! Admittedly, we were there at prime brunch time and the place was hopping due to a street fair on Third Avenue, but I think there may be too much marble and mirrors – too many hard surfaces in general.
The waiters wear genuine Armor-Lux marinières (the classic striped shirts) and my waiter was the real deal – a Frenchman – and he humored me by speaking to me in French. We ordered tartines (tarteen), sort of open-faced sandwiches. My first choice was sold-out, so I went with a reliable classic, smoked salmon, crème fraîche, and capers, while he-who-patiently-puts-up-with-all-my-whims went with egg and crumbled sausage. At first, my order was messed-up and we both got the egg and sausage tartine. While mine was just fine, everything comme il faut, just as a smoked salmon tartine should be, I think my husband’s was yummier. It was sort of a scrambled-egg sandwich with oodles of flavor. Absolutely top notch was the coffee, smooth, without a hint of acidity. We’ll definitely go back, but we’ll hope for a quieter dining experience next time – and some tarte Monge.
- 10 Irresistible Paris Pastries (and where to eat them) (theflyingfugu.com)
- Maison Kayser, a Global Baker, Touches Down in New York (dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com)