On n’a rien sans rien


One of the gem-like little museums in Paris is the musée Cognacq-Jay. This free museum is run by the city. It’s located on a quiet side street, rue Elzévir, in the Marais. The museum houses the collection of Théodore-Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise Jay. Cognacq founded La Samaritaine department store. (The beautiful store has been closed for a few years now but it is scheduled to reopen as a hotel in 2014). He plowed his wealth into collecting art, furniture and decorative items, much of which was from 18th century France. It was as though Cognacq sought to bury his humble roots and the “grubby” way he’d earned his money, instead of inheriting it, by moving in the best circles of art connoisseurs.

Musee-Cognacq-Jay 2

There’s some first first-rate art here: two Rembrandts, paintings by Boucher, Chardin, Fragonard, Greuze, de La Tour, Watteau, and sculpture by Houdin. My favorite is one by Vigée Le Brun. Cognacq even had the foresight to buy some up-and-coming artists, including Corot, Cézanne, and Degas. After his death in 1929, Cognacq’s collection was willed to the city of Paris. The collection has been housed in the graceful 16th century Hôtel Donon since 1990. For the most part, the Cognacq-Jay treasures are set up in twenty paneled rooms spread over four floors that recreate life in pre-Revolutionary France. Smaller precious objects, like snuff boxes and miniature portraits, are gathered behind glass in the third floor hall. From May to September, you may also enjoy the typically French garden of clipped hedges. The musée Cognacq-Jay is open every day except Monday from 10 am until 5:40 pm.

Cognacq Jay 3

Today’s expression, on n’a rien sans rien (ohna reeN sahn reeN), literally means “one has nothing without nothing,” which is the French equivalent of the English expression, “there’s no free lunch.” While lunch may not be free, admission to this lovely, high-quality museum certainly is. Why not celebrate your visit with an extra-nice lunch in one of the many Marais restaurants?

51VEQ3vD6EL__SL75_Guide to the musée Cognacq-Jay

About Patricia Gilbert

Patricia Gilbert is a French teacher. She's Canadian, lives in the United States, but dreams of living in France. Follow her on Instagram @Onequalitythefinest and on Twitter @1qualthefinest.
This entry was posted in Art, Travel and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

5 Responses to On n’a rien sans rien

  1. Pingback: Hôtels particuliers | One quality, the finest.

  2. Pingback: Ici, enfin, je repose | One quality, the finest.

  3. Pingback: Siècle d’or de l’éventail | One quality, the finest.

  4. Pingback: La flânerie | One quality, the finest.

  5. Pingback: Exaucer | One quality, the finest.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s